At
Alphington we had pointed out to us the "Mile End Cottage," formerly the
residence of the parents of Charles Dickens, and then walked on to
Exminster, expecting from its name to find something interesting, but we
were doomed to disappointment. On the opposite side of the river,
however, we could see the quaint-looking little town of Topsham, which
appeared as if it had been imported from Holland, a country which my
brother had visited seven years previously; we heard that the principal
treasures stored in the houses there were Dutch tiles. Ships had
formerly passed this place on their way to Exeter, but about the year
1290 Isabella de-Fortibus, Countess of Exeter, having been offended by
the people there, blocked up the river with rocks and stones, thereby
completely obstructing the navigation and doing much damage to the trade
of Exeter. At that time cloths and serges were woven from the wool for
which the neighbourhood of Exeter was famous, and exported to the
Continent, the ships returning with wines and other merchandise; hence
Exeter was at that time the great wine-importing depot of the country.
The weir which thus blocked the river was still known as the "Countess
Weir," and Topsham--which, by the way, unlike Exeter, absolutely
belonged to the Earls of Devon--increased in importance, for ships had
now to stop there instead of going through to Exeter.
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