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"From John O'Groats to Land's End"


The Marlborough Downs which adjoined Salisbury Plain are very extensive,
occupying together three-fifths of the county of Wilts, being accurately
described as "ranges of undulating chalk cliffs almost devoid of trees,
and devoted almost exclusively to the pasturage of sheep from remote
ages." These animals, our only companions for miles, can live almost
without water, which is naturally very scarce on chalk formations, since
the rain when it falls is absorbed almost immediately. Very few
shepherds were visible, but there must have been some about, for every
now and then their dogs paid us rather more attention than we cared for,
especially my brother, who when a small boy had been bitten by one,
since which time not much love had been lost between him and dogs. As
there were no fences to the roads, we walked on the grass, which was
only about an inch deep. Sheep had been pastured on it from time
immemorial, and the constant biting of the surface had encouraged the
side, or undergrowth, which made our walking easy and pleasant; for it
was like walking on a heavy Turkey carpet though much more springy. The
absence of trees and bushes enabled us to distinguish the presence of
ancient earth-works, but whether they were prehistoric, Roman, Dane, or
Saxon we did not know.


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