]
In the meantime we had decided to visit Fountains Abbey, so, crossing
the River Kent, we walked nine miles along a hilly road over the fells,
which were about 800 feet above sea-level. We stopped at a place called
Old Town for breakfast, for which our walk through the sharp clear air
on the fells had given us an amazing appetite. We then walked quickly
down the remaining three miles to Kirkby Lonsdale, passing on our way
the beautiful grounds and residence of the Earl of Bective. At the
entrance to the town we came to the school, and as the master happened
to be standing at the door, we took the opportunity of asking him some
particulars about Kirkby Lonsdale and our farther way to Fountains
Abbey. He was a native of Scotland, and gave us some useful and reliable
information, being greatly interested in the object of our journey. We
found Kirkby Lonsdale to be quite a nice old-fashioned town with a
church dedicated to St. Mary--a sign, we thought, of its antiquity; the
interior had been recently restored by the Earl of Bective at a cost of
about L11,000. An old board hanging up in the church related to one of
the porches, on which was painted a crest and shield with the date 1668,
and the following words in old English letters:
This porch by y' Banes first builded was,
(Of Heighholme Hall they weare,)
And after sould to Christopher Wood
By William Banes thereof last heyre.
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