Mosquitoes by thousands, and very annoying, red and distended with their
crimson feast. Alsoo--a rather uninteresting place, grand mountains.
Huramuk to the East, and great expanse of water.
JULY 19th, Sunday.--On the march again to Lalpore, twelve miles. I left
my heavy baggage and dandy in the boat (which here awaits my return) and
only took my tent and bedding with one week's stores, the whole only
four coolie loads, and now began my first taste of real mountain work.
For nearly four hours I was ascending the steep range which rises above
Alsoo, and hard toiling it was. Half way up we met some men with
butter-milk, of which my boy made me drink a quantity, saying it would
"keep master cool." As we rose--the vale spread out magnificently
beneath us, and the large lake was seen to full advantage shining under
the morning sun, which appeared from behind a grand snow-clad mountain.
Near the top we came to the prettiest stream I have seen, its banks
covered with maiden hair and other ferns, fruit trees and firs, and its
surface skimmed by gorgeous flies. The summit gained, I was well
rewarded by a view of the whole of the Solab an off-shoot of the main
valley. A bright gem in a dark setting of deodar covered mountains,
spurs from which radiated into the valley so fair and verdant with its
many villages, its meandering streams, and frequent orchards, the air
laden with the perfume of many flowers.
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