However he arrived
safely with his black face _pale_, dripping with perspiration and saying
he was sick. What was most amusing was to see him hooking his legs one
in front of the other on his way over, but I dare say I was equally
laughable to anyone on terra firma. He told me afterwards "water all go
down, and I go up and get sick and giddy." Another two miles over a low
ridge and I got to Mozufferabad and put up at the Barahduree provided by
the Maharajah for the convenience of English travellers free of charge,
for we are now in Kashmerian territory. This is an unfurnished bungalow
built of mud and pine logs, and there is one at every stage. This saves
the trouble of pitching a tent, and is of course much better in wet
weather. I have not had a drop of rain though yet. Met Watson, of Fane's
Horse, at the bungalow going back to Peshawur. Got Incis's Guide from
him for the day, and made some notes at the other end of this book.
There is a picturesque fort on this bank of the river commanding the
bridge, built by the Pathans, apparently of bright red stone or brick.
It was interesting to see mules and ponies swimming across the stream.
Holding on by the tail of each was a man supported by two inflated
Mussaks or goat skins which are ordinarily used by the Bheisties for
carrying water.
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