There are _two_ routes
open to me, he advises the one which yesterday I was warned against by
the other fellows. They have been over both roads, yet do not agree as
to which is the best. Ellis was disappointed with Kashmir, but he has
only been a few months in India, and has not yet forgotten England, for
I expect that Kashmir after all, is only so very pleasant, by contrast
with the plains of India.
JULY 9th.--Started an hour before sunrise and did the whole march to
Ghuri, distance nineteen miles. Walked the greater part of the way in
sandals and socks, which I find the most comfortable way of getting on.
First half of the march along the level to the foot of the hill, then an
undulating road through a pine forest, the latter half easy walking
owing to the ground being covered with fallen fir leaves which made it
as soft as a carpet. A fine view from the top of hill, looking down to
Ghuri. The river Ghuri, a mountain torrent seen for a long distance
rushing with a great roar over its rocky bed, bounded on each side by
high hills, and above by mountains covered with snow, from the melting
of which it arises. The water is consequently icy cold, and my tub at
the end of the march was highly invigorating. Put up at the Dak
Bungalow, a neat, clean, furnished building, standing on the right bank
of the river, which is crossed just in front by a very fair suspension
bridge.
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