India 2001 books

This inn was second-class, and along
one wall was a deep trough, in which were four huge lumps of a white
substance which puzzled us. First we thought it was snow, but that
seemed impossible; then we thought it was salt--but why?
It was snow, there being no water fit to drink, so the snow was stored
in the winter in huge underground cellars.
We got coffee and kaimak--a sort of cross between sour milk and cream
cheese--and as a great honour the lady of the house, a villainously
dirty-looking woman, brought us two eggs. Jan's was bad, but he put it
aside, saying nothing, for it is impossible to explain to these people
what is a "bad" egg--all are alike to them.
We took an affectionate leave of Mike, for here we degenerated to a
carriage, which was waiting us, and he rode off, dragging our tired
horses behind him.
As we were getting into the carriage the dirty woman ran up and, before
Jo could ward it off, planted a loving kiss on either cheek.
We flung our weary limbs upon the rusty cushions.


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