Smoke softens every outline;
red-brick walls and tanned sails bring warmth and color through the blue
vapor of many chimneys; a sun-flash glitters at this point and that,
denoting here a conservatory, there a studio. Enter this hive and you shall
find a network of narrow stone streets; a flutter of flannel underwear, or
blue stockings, and tawny garments drying upon lines; little windows, some
with rows of oranges and ginger-beer bottles in them; little shops; little
doors, at which cluster little children and many cats, the latter mostly
tortoise-shell and white. Infants watch their elders playing marbles in the
roadway, and the cats stretch lazy bodies on the mats, made of old
fishing-net, which lie at every cottage door. Newlyn stands on slight
elevations above the sea level, and at one point the road bends downward,
breaks and fringes the tide, leading among broken iron, rusty anchors, and
dismantled fishing-boats, past an ancient buoy whose sides now serve the
purposes of advertisement and tell of prayer-meetings, cheap tea, and so
forth. Hard by, the mighty blocks of the old breakwater stand, their fabric
dating from the reign of James I., and taking the place of one still older.
But the old breakwater is no more than a rialto for ancient gossips now;
and far beyond it new piers stretch encircling arms of granite round a new
harbor, southward of which the lighthouse stands and winks his sleepless
golden eye from dusk to dawn.
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